Licensed Electricians for Every Sector

A breaker that will not move back to "on," or that snaps off immediately, usually means there is an active fault on that circuit. Leave it off and call us; forcing it can damage the panel, and a dead circuit often points to a problem that needs to be found before it spreads.

Arc-fault breakers are required in living areas and trip on the tiny dangerous arcs a normal breaker ignores, so "no reason" is often a real loose connection, a damaged cord, or an incompatible appliance. We test the circuit to tell a true hazard from a nuisance trip and fix the source rather than just swapping the breaker.

The breaker size is matched to the wire gauge behind it. A larger breaker lets the wire carry more current than it is rated for, which overheats the wiring inside your walls and is a leading cause of electrical fires. The right fix is to add a circuit or upgrade capacity, not to oversize the breaker.

Yes. Scorch or melt marks mean the outlet has been arcing or overheating, often from a loose connection or an overloaded circuit. It should be taken out of service and replaced by a licensed electrician before it ignites the surrounding wood or insulation.

No. A normal outlet stays at room temperature. Warmth means resistance and heat in the wiring or device, usually a loose connection or an overloaded circuit, and it should be inspected promptly before it fails.

This often comes from a tripped GFCI upstream, a loose "backstabbed" connection in one outlet, or a failing neutral feeding the rest. Because the cause is hidden, it is worth having it traced; a loose neutral in particular can damage appliances and start a fire.

A GFCI will not reset if it still senses a ground fault, if there is no power reaching it, or if the device itself has worn out (they typically last about 10 years). It can also control other outlets downstream, so one tripped GFCI can kill several. We find the fault and replace the device if needed.

Outdoor and bathroom GFCIs trip when moisture gets into the outlet, a cover, or a connected fixture, which is exactly the shock they are designed to prevent. The fix is to find where water is entering, add weatherproof in-use covers, and replace any corroded device.

Common signs are a fuse box or a panel under 100 amps, breakers that trip often, lights that flicker when large appliances run, a panel that is full with no open slots, or plans to add an EV charger, heat pump, or ADU. We can run a load check and tell you whether an upgrade is actually needed.

For most Bay Area homes adding modern loads (EV charging, induction, heat pumps, ADUs), yes. 200 amp service removes the bottleneck, adds breaker space, and is what buyers and inspectors expect. If you are not adding load and your panel is healthy, it may be fine, and we will tell you honestly.

Pricing depends on whether the meter and service entrance also need work, overhead vs underground service, and PG&E coordination, so quotes vary widely. We give a fixed, upfront price after looking at your panel rather than a vague range. Ask our team for an estimate.

Depending on your panel you may be able to use tandem breakers, a subpanel, or load management to free up space, or a full upgrade if the panel is old or maxed out. We pick the safest option that fits your future plans instead of just cramming it.

The wiring work itself is usually a day, but PG&E coordination, permits, and inspection can add days to weeks depending on workload and whether the meter or service drop changes. We handle the permit and PG&E paperwork and give you a realistic timeline up front.

Underground service work means trenching, conduit, and often more PG&E involvement, so it costs significantly more than reconnecting an overhead drop. We tell you which type your home has and what drives the price before any work starts.

Insurers increasingly refuse or cancel coverage over Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels, knob-and-tube, and aluminum branch wiring. Upgrading not only removes the fire risk, it often restores insurability, and we can document the work for your carrier.

Knob-and-tube, common in older Peninsula homes, has no ground, gets brittle with age, and is unsafe when buried in insulation or overloaded by modern electronics. Many insurers will not cover homes that still have it, so replacing it protects both your safety and your policy.

Aluminum branch wiring from the 1960s-70s loosens and overheats at connections, which is a known fire cause and an insurance red flag. It can be made much safer with approved connectors or replaced. We assess yours and recommend the right remedy.

Two-prong outlets have no ground path, which is risky for computers, TVs, and anything with a surge protector. Options range from running a proper ground to a GFCI-based correction where code allows, and we tell you which applies to your home.

Whole-house rewiring depends on the home's size, access, and finishes, so it ranges widely; sometimes a panel upgrade plus targeted rewiring is enough rather than a full rewire. We assess first and give you a clear, fixed quote and a phased option if needed.

A Level 2 charger typically needs a 40-60 amp circuit, and whether your panel can take it depends on its size and existing load. We run a quick load calculation; if there is not enough headroom, load management often avoids a full upgrade.

Cost depends on the distance from your panel to the charger, whether a new circuit or panel capacity is needed, and any trenching. A simple install near the panel is modest; longer runs cost more. We give a firm price after a quick look or a few photos.

Not always. Many homes can add a charger with load management or by freeing up capacity, even on a 100 amp panel. We check before recommending an upgrade so you do not pay for one you do not need.

Yes, often with a load-management device that shares capacity between the charger and other large loads, or with a small subpanel, which can be cheaper than a full service upgrade. We lay out the options and prices.

There is a federal tax credit (30% up to $1,000 for qualifying installs in eligible areas) and PG&E time-of-use rate programs that lower charging costs. Programs change, so we point you to current ones and install to qualify where possible.

A brief dim when a big motor starts can be normal, but persistent flicker across the house often means a loose connection, an undersized service, or a failing panel lug, which can be dangerous. If it is widespread or getting worse, have it checked promptly.

A faint hum can be normal, but loud buzzing, crackling, or a hot panel cover means a loose connection or failing breaker and should be treated as urgent. Do not open the panel yourself; call a licensed electrician.

Dimmers run slightly warm by design, but a switch that is hot, or warm without a dimmer, usually means an overload or a loose connection behind it. Have it inspected, since loose connections in switches are a common fire start.

Recessed lighting without attic access takes more labor because we fish wiring through closed ceilings and use remodel-rated cans, so it costs more than open-attic work. We quote it after seeing the space, and the result is clean with no major drywall damage.

Adding a fan where there is no fixture means running a new circuit or fishing wiring and installing a fan-rated box that can carry the weight and motion, which is electrician work for safety and code. We handle the box, switch, and wiring so it is solid and quiet.

Yes for most work beyond simple like-for-like swaps, including new circuits, panel upgrades, EV chargers, and added outlets or fixtures. Permits protect you at resale and with insurance. We pull the permit and handle inspection so your work is documented and legal.

Unpermitted work can fail at resale, void insurance claims, and has to be opened up and re-inspected, which costs more later. If you have inherited unpermitted work, we can inspect it and help bring it up to code with proper permits.

California does not require a separate meter for an ADU, though it sometimes needs its own subpanel and a load calculation to confirm the main service can carry it. We do the load calc and set it up to pass plan check.

Title 24 is California's energy code, and it is triggered when you permit lighting work; it sets requirements like high-efficacy fixtures and certain controls. We design and install to meet Title 24 so your project passes inspection.

Switch off the main breaker if you safely can, unplug what you can, and leave the area ventilated. A burning smell with no visible source means heat inside a wall or the panel and needs an immediate professional response. Call us now, and call 911 if you see smoke or flame.

If the problem is at the utility's lines, meter, or service drop, PG&E handles it; if it is your panel, wiring, or outlets, an electrician does. It is not always obvious which, so call us and we will quickly tell you which side owns the fault.

Quotes vary by license, insurance, materials, permits, and whether the price is fixed or hourly, so the cheapest bid often skips permits or uses lesser parts. Compare scope line by line, confirm the contractor is licensed and insured, and favor upfront fixed pricing. We give itemized quotes so you see exactly what you are paying for.

Search the contractor's license number at the California CSLB website (cslb.ca.gov); a C-10 classification means licensed for electrical work. Fox Electric is CSLB #1145945, C-10 licensed and insured, and you are welcome to verify it.

Yes. We stand behind our workmanship and use quality, code-compliant materials, and we walk you through the warranty terms for your specific project before we start.

Cost depends on generator size, fuel type, and the transfer switch and electrical hookup, so it ranges widely. After we size it to the loads you want to keep running during a PG&E outage, we give a firm quote.

Sometimes. A smart panel or battery with load management can let you add EV charging or backup power without a full service upgrade by intelligently sharing capacity. We compare the cost of a smart solution vs a traditional upgrade for your home.

Whole-home surge protection installs at your panel and shields electronics, appliances, EV chargers, and HVAC from voltage spikes off the grid and lightning, which plug-in strips cannot fully do. With more sensitive electronics in modern homes, many Bay Area owners add it during a panel upgrade.